Walking the West Highland Way North to South means we will start with
the toughest part of the walk first. You’ll have Ben Nevis at your back
as you start off, although it does mean you will meet loads of fellow
walkers as they head towards Fort William. The other thing the team
has to be wary off is cyclists. Going north to south is very popular
with people cycling the WHW so they can see oncoming walkers, but I’m
sure the cyclists will hear us long before they see us!
DAY ONE
SATURDAY 4TH APRIL - FORT WILLIAM to KINLOCHLEVEN - 14 MILES
We set off from Fort William heading for Kinlochleven. The walk starts
by crossing the Nevis Bridge and then following the River Nevis for
1.5 miles. Along the way we pass a huge boulder called ‘Clach Comhairle’,
the stone of Counsel. A steep climb, then a more gradual climb takes
us up Glen Nevis on forest tracks. Leaving the glen, leads us onto rougher
terrain through forest plantations and sections of open ground.
The walking improves after reaching forestry at Blar
a’ Chaorainn near Lundavra and continues for the rest of the day on
the Caulfield Road, an old military way which gives mainly very good
walking although we do reach a height of 330 metres (1080 feet) when
we reach Lairigmor, the Great Pass. This is surrounded by 11 Munros
on either side. The first day ends with a steep descent through woodland
down into Kinlochleven.
Paths on the first day are a mixture of forest tracks,
tarmac and old military roads.
Things to look out for on the first day apart from Munros is an old iron age fort called ‘Dun Deardail’, and of course the vast flanks of Ben Nevis. New industries and tourism activities bring Kinlochleven many visitors throughout the year. The Atlas Brewery produces a fine range of cask-conditioned beers from the old Carbon factory and tours can be arranged.
Email address - info@atlasbrewery.com
DAY TWO
SUNDAY 5TH APRIL - KINLOCHLEVEN to KINGSHOUSE - 9 MILES
The 9 mile trek to Kingshouse starts with a long climb out of Kinlochleven,
passes by the old Alcan aluminium works and follows the River Leven.
The path climbs relatively gently with many turns zigzagging across
three of the Northern spurs of the Aonach Eagach ridge up to 550 metres
(1800 feet), the highest point along the way. At the summit there is
a cairn where I’m sure the team will want to stop for a breather and
also take some photos. The descent takes you steeply down the zigzags
of the ‘Devil’s Staircase’ to Altnafeadh in Glencoe.
Parts of the route are quite exposed to any bad weather, though the
views of the surrounding mountains will be magnificent.
In 1692, this was the approach route for the (apparently
delayed) troops coming from Kinlochleven to provide reinforcements for
the Massacre of Glencoe.
At the bottom of the Devil’s Staircase the route is much easier as it
follows the old Glencoe Road which runs parallel to the A82 to Kings
House.
Today’s route also passes the Buachaille Etive Mor,
one of the most easily recognisable mountains in Scotland. At 3352 feet
high and almost perfectly pyramidal in shape, it forms an impressive
entrance to Glencoe, Buachaille Etive Mor (translates as Etive’s Big
Herdsman) is a popular climb for mountaineers and its picture is also
often used in postcards and calendars from Scotland – a classic view.
DAY THREE
MONDAY 6TH APRIL - KINGSHOUSE to BRDIGE OF ORCHY - 12 MILES
Today’s route crosses the A82 South-East of Kings House following the
road to the Glencoe Ski Centre as far as Blackrock Cottage. After which
it climbs fairly gently across the slopes of Meall a’ Bhuiridh and then
down to cross the River Ba at Ba Bridge. The vast area of lochans and
moorland to the East is Rannoch Moor and the Way crosses the very Western
edge. The route is reasonably level, as far as the plantation at Drochaid
Doire Mhic Laimh and then descends very gently to Victoria Bridge where
tarmac is joined and this is followed as far as the Inveroran Hotel.
After the hotel there is a moderate climb to a viewpoint
on Mam Carraigh at 320 metres (1050 feet).
The Way then descends to Bridge of Orchy on a rougher
path through forestry.
All except the last mile or so of today’s walking is on very good tracks
or tarmac and gradients are generally fairly gentle. The team should
find this much easier although people might well find that the hard
surfaces cause a few problems. Today’s route can be exposed to bad weather
and there is very little in the way of shelter. In good weather, though
the views should be excellent.
Today’s spectacular views are of the vast swathes of Rannoch Moor, Black
Mount Hills and the vast Corrie Ba to the West and Beinn an Dothaidh,
Beinn Achaladair and Ben Dorain to the East.
DAY FOUR
TUESDAY 7TH APRIL - BRIDGE OF ORCHY to CRIANLARICH- 13 MILES
The steep climb up to the Bridge of Orchy station may well prove to
be the hardest challenge today!
After crossing under the West Highland Railway, the West Highland Way
turns South and follows a good path along the North side of the railway
line for about 3km. We then cross to the South side by a footbridge
and descend gently to the valley floor at Auch. The way then climbs
fairly gently once again for just over 3km to a high point at around
300 metres before descending just as gently to Tyndrum where there are,
of course, shops, café’s and bars.
From Tyndrum, we cross the A82 and walk on a path by a burn through
moorland, pastures and woodland to the riverside and then onto a track
which twice crosses the A82 to Auchtertyre and Kirkton and then through
forestry to Bogle Glen.
At Bogle Glen we leave the WHW temporarily and go down
through woodland to Crianlarich.
Today’s walking is mainly on very good tracks and paths
and after passing through Tyndrum, the actual route wanders from one
side of the Glen to the other. There are no very steep climbs and there
is, of course, the added advantage of refreshments at half time!
Today’s walk passes under the steep slopes of Beinn Dorain – remember
to look back after passing Auch for the classic view.
Look for the three Munros over in the South/Southwest – Beinn Dhubhchraig,
Ben Oss and Ben Lui.
The walk enters Strath Fillan and passes St Fillan’s
priory just after Authtertyre Farm. St Fillan was an eighth century
Irish missionary monk credited with many miracles. He never walked from
Fort William to Ibrox, though!!
DAY FIVE
WEDNESDAY 8TH APRIL - CRIANLARICH to INVERSNAID - 13 MILES
We retrace our steps from Crianlarich to rejoin the WHW at Bogle Glen.
Today’s walking takes us on a gentle descent of Glen Falloch on good
paths or farm tracks.
We cross the A82 and the railway line once again near Carmyle Cottage,
passing through Derrydaroch and come to the Falls of Falloch at which
point we start to enter more patches of woodland.
After passing Ben Glas Farm the way climbs up to a
little bealach above Ardleish. After this point, we descend to the shore
of Loch Lomond and follow the way to Inversnaid.
There is a lot of up and downs on this section of the
path for about a kilometre South of Doune to Rob Roy’s cave. The path
runs across a rough and steep hillside which will need some care in
places especially if the weather is wet. Team members will need to take
their time crossing this bit.
Watch out for Rob Roy’s Cave – painted with the word
“Cave”. This may be difficult to find as it’s well hidden amongst boulders
and the rocks need care if they’re wet as they’ll be very slippery.
It's on a vague headland about 900 metres North of Inversnaid.
Watch out for the distinctive triple-topped profile
of Ben Arthur, “The Cobbler” over in the West.
Rowchoish bothy was refurbished for wayfarers in memory
of one William Ferris, an outdoor “activist” for over 40 years from
the 1920’s and a founder member of the Rucksack Club from which the
SYHA evolved.
A mile or so South of Rowchoish bothy on the lower path is a cave named
“Rob Roy’s Prison” where it is supposed that he kept his kidnap victims
and prisoners. There is no proof of this!
There may well be wild goats in the area – watch out
for these. (Travis beware!).
DAY SIX
THURSDAY 9TH APRIL - INVERSNAID to BALMAHA - 14 MILES
The route today starts in much the same vein as yesterday, with a rough
loch side path which will need care in places. This had suffered serious
damage in October 2008 and may be difficult. At Rowchois, there is a
choice (!) of paths. A loch side path continues through oak woods for
a further 3km and is rough and a little scrambly in places. Alternatively
a forest track runs parallel a little way above and provides quicker
and easier walking but is less scenic. The paths rejoin near Ptarmigan
Lodge and continues on a good track to Rowardennan where there is a
bar.(break time!).
After leaving Rowardennan, the going is much easier
on loch side paths, though woodland and pastures and short sections
of tarmac and all fairly close to the loch side.
On the opposite shore of Loch Lomond are the Luss Hills, lying just
South of the Arrochar Alps. From the top of Conic Hill, all of these
should be visible as well as the Gargunnock and Fintry Hills, Ben Ledi,
the Kilpatricks and, possibly even the Isle of Arran and, of course,
most of Loch Lomond.
Just offshore at Balmaha is the island of Inchcailloch
– traditionally the place where St Kentigerna died in 734 AD. St Kentigerna
was St Fillan’s mother, who’s name is preserved in Strath Fillan.
The island contains the burials of several McGregors
and MacFarlanes.
DAY SEVEN
FRIDAY 10TH APRIL - BALMAHA to CARBETH - 15 MILES
At Balmaha, the WHW heads off North-East through woodland and up onto
the steep, open slopes of Conic Hill. The line of the path fails to
visit the summit of the hill and traverses the North side just below
the summit ridge on a shelf. Team members may well want to pay a short
visit to the 360-metre top. (1180 feet).
There is a gentle descent to the Burn of Mar where
the path goes through pastures and forest tracks to join the A811 East
of Drymen.
A short section of road walking towards Drymen follows then the route
heads South once again on a path to Gartness.(Watch out for traffic
on this narrow road)
At Gartness, the Way continues Southwards on the trackbed
of the old Blane Valley railway which provides very direct and easy
walking. The route crosses the A81, bypassing Killearn and after almost
7km it finally meets the Blane Water. Here we turn off and head through
pastures to Arlehaven and then onto a farm track to the B821 East of
Carbeth.
The range of hills in the East are the Campsies – the
distinctive steep, rounded hill being Dumgoyne, a volcanic plug.
The Blane Valley railway opened in 1861 and ran from
Glasgow to Aberfoyle. It closed to passengers in 1951 and closed completely
in 1966.
The distillery on the left to the South of Killearn is the Glengoyne
distillery. Try to resist the temptation of the inviting sign to visit
the place to sample “Scotland’s unrepeated malt whisky”.
Watch out for the Dumgoyach Standing Stones - five
big boulders on the left just after leaving the railway path. These
are thought to date from 3500 BC. Dumgoyach hill itself is another volcanic
plug.
Strathblane is historically a lowland area, once being
part of the Earldom of Lennox – on the edge of the Highlands and subject
to the depredations of clans such as the McGregors. And so, the team
has left the Highlands and entered the Lowlands.
DAY EIGHT
SATURDAY 11TH APRIL - CARBETH to MILNGAVIE - 5 MILES
NEARLY THERE!!!
PAISLEY ROAD WEST to IBROX PARK
The final few miles of the WHW start at the B821. We soon head South
on a good track passing first Carbeth Loch then Craigallian Loch. We
walk alongside the Allander Water heading into the oakwoods of Mugdock
Wood then into Allander Park.
The Way enters Milngavie close to the River Allander
and ends at a granite obelisk in Douglas Street in the town centre.
Craigallian is the place where, in the great depression,
walkers and climbers used to have a great bonfire at weekends, sleeping
rough wherever they could, sometimes covered in newspapers for warmth.
Mugdock Wood is an old oak-wood famous in May for its
swathes of bluebells. Unfortunately we’ll be too early to see these.
The wood was given to Glasgow by Sir Hugh Fraser in 1980 and is managed
as a country park.
Milngavie is usually the starting point for the West Highland Way but this is where the team finishes the way before heading for Ibrox Park.
